Big Landscaping Change – Getting Help?

I contacted a nearby nursery as I started to realize how big a task creating the new bed in my front yard was going to be. A landscape designer came out to look at my yard and then I went to the nursery to look at what they have…and get a better idea on their approach. I’ll get their estimate next week.

On the plus side –

  • The new landscaped bed will look good sooner than if I do it myself. It would have layers of topsoil/compost covered by finer oak mulch and it would have a flat rock edge that would make it easier to mow around. Part of it would be 18 inches above the rest.

  • The plants will be bigger than the native plant supplier would provide. They have some of the plants I want in stock: golden ragwort, wild indigo (gold and blue), American Beautyberry, and serviceberry.

  • They would handle all the labor and logistics for creating the new area.

  • They had rattlesnake master in stock and I remembered seeing in on my prairie walks…it would add some drama to the front yard planting.

The negatives could be -

  • Cost – although I don’t have the estimate yet…but it will obviously cost more that if I did it myself.

  • They don’t have spicebush and I really wanted that instead of serviceberry in the front yard.

  • Some of the plants might be varieties of natives rather than the native form of the plants.

  • They would use roundup as part of the initial bed creation.

I’ll wait to get the estimate before making a decision, but I would very much want the initial bed creation and some of the plantings to be done by professionals. I can fill in with more plants next spring if I want.

I’ve already ask my arborist for another load of wood chips…so, if I accept the proposal from the nursery, I’ll use the load of woodchips in other parts of the yard rather than in the front….and I might need to move some of the mulch I put in the front yard to other places before the new bed is created.

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Big Landscaping Change – Tweaking the Plan

The Missouri Master Naturalist chapter meeting this month was about the Lake Springfield Boathouse Garden. As we walked around the boathouse and learned the history (and challenge) of some of the plantings, I realized that I was mentally tweaking the plan for my front yard.

The beautyberry at the Boathouse is thriving and it provides winter food for birds. I have one in my backyard and am going to plant another one in the front yard rather than a wild hydrangea which was not doing well at the Boathouse.

The serviceberry at the Boathouse was about 4 years old and had already lost most of its leaves (i.e. young trees might not have pretty fall color). I am still going to plant one, but I am adding a spicebush to my list to enhance the near-term look of the garden.

The big bluestem clumps looked great in the back of the garden at the Boathouse. They would be great to provide a different color and shape among the other plants in my front yard. The garden is on the south side of the house so the plants will always get some sun for part of the day…so the grass should thrive long term.

The cup plants are insect magnets, but they are too tall for the front garden. I decided to buy some to plant along my back fence (I can put some twine looped to the fence to hold them up).

It could be 4 years before the new plantings are big enough to look like I want – but there should be improvement each year. I might add some nectar plants like coreopsis next spring. To fill in around the young plants

I’m going to trim some of my larger plants before they get buds/are too tall (like gray headed coneflower and pokeweed) to see if I can keep them short enough to use as front yard plants too. I’ll do that experiment in my backyard next spring with the plants already established there.

After this first round of tweaking – the plantings I will buy in early October are:

  • Roundleaf groundsel or Golden ragwort Packera aurea (3) (change made because of what the native plant vendor offers)

  • Blue Wild Indigo Baptisia australis (3)

  • American Beautyberry Callicarpa americana

  • Big bluestem Andropogon gerardii (2)

  • Spicebush Lindera benzoin

  • Serviceberry Amelanchier arboria

  • Pawpaw Asimina triloba (2- one for the front and one for backyard)

  • Cup plant Silphium perfoliatum (2 for backyard)

The plan for before winter comes is:

  • Order more wood chips/mulch and complete making the new bed (lots of work)

  • Place order for plants to be picked up the first week in October

  • Make 811 request (need to do before digging)

  • Plant (lots of work…but maybe not as much as making the new bed)

  • And, of course, continued pulling of weeds as they come up in my new landscaping area!

  • I am making a diagram to guide my planting…and will in include it in my next progress report.

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Big Landscaping Change – the plan

Having a maple cut down after a storm damaged it, prompted some thinking about what to do with our front yard. It looked way too open, and I didn’t want more grass to mow! I talked to another Master Naturalist that has a lot more experience than me for advice about good native plants for a front yard. She had done a lecture about native plantings last fall when I attended the Missouri Master Naturalist core training, and I remembered her comments about serviceberry (Amelanchier aborea) – was leaning toward that plant as the largest in the new landscaping. She invited me to see the plantings in her yard…and that helped me decide on the other plants I wanted:

Wild hydrangea (the one that would be the next largest and be planted midway between the remaining maple and the serviceberry)…this is the one in am still thinking about…my alternative would be a Ninebark like I had in Maryland…it does well here too!

Multiple wild indigos as a smaller shrub and a legume that will put nitrogen into the soil

Roundleaf groundsel that will become the groundcover and will stay green when the other plants are dormant

My Homeowners Association has an Architecture Committee that wants to know about significant landscaping changes so I drew a sketch and listed the plants I was considering….and they approved it about 30 minutes after I sent the email! It was much easier that I thought it would be.

Now to get the bed made (an area encompassing the three areas I heavily mulched with wood chips from the maple)…and order the plants…and plant them in late September/early October.

Phelps Grove Park

Last week the Identifying Woody Plants class walked to Phelps Grove Park to add more trees to our list. I used my point-and-shoot (Canon Powershot SX730 HS) to capture some features of the additional trees (plus some trees already on our list). The temperaature was in the 70s…perfect for the hike…but the leaves are beginning to fall on many of the trees. Identification will get harder.

Serviceberry – Amelanchier arborea – Rosaceae: stripped bark, multiple trunks, small trees, two toned pointy buds, leaves simple and alternate

Crabapple – Malus – Rosaceae: pome without grit, twigs hairy, leaves (lobed, simple, entire)

Hawthorne – Crataegus – Rosaceae: thorns, pome, leaves round, bark pealing and patchy, the one we saw was infested with apple cedar rust (i.e. not a healthy tree)

Fig (just for interest…not added to list)

Flowering dogwood (not new) – Cornus florida - Cornaceae

White oak – Quercus alba – Fagaceae: leaves (rounded lobes, smooth, lighter underneath), acorns dark with bumpy cups and often sprout in fall

Hemlock (not new) – Tsuga canadensis - Pinaceae

Black cherry – Prunus serotina – Rosaceae: observed bark…branches too high to see more

Osage orange – Maclura pomifera – Moraceae: bark shaggy and orange in parts, leaves (tapering tip, entire, alternate, simple, size varies), the one we saw was male so no fruit

Red mulberry  - Morus rubra – Moraceae: milky sap, leaves (toothed, shiny, falling)


Shortleaf pine (note new) – Pinus echinate – Pinaceae

Hackberry – Celtis occidentalis – Cannabaceae: drupe that can taste like a dry raisin, leaves (3 veins, asymmetric, rough), the one we saw had galls, bark rough and gray, large tree

Shingle oak – Quercus imbricaria – Fagaceae: acorn small, leaves (no lobes, long and narrow, soft hair underneath), multiple buds at tend of twigs, bark grayish

Previous posts about my experiences in the Identifying Woody Plants class at Missouri State University